Toiles

After deciding I wanted to create an oversized look, I used a man's pattern blocks to create this look, and decided to alter it according to a one that Sally (pattern cutting tutor) had made up.

Taking in from the shoulder down, (where it is pinned) means the sleeve will sit closer in and the side will be taken in a little, giving a less baggy look, as the mens jacket is massive! So the next step was to do a paper half jacket to test on the stand...

This is what the outcome was. So I adjusted the length as it was too long, and I was happy with the lapel, but it needed a slight reshape. From this I initial pattern draft I altered the patterns to create a half toile.

I was fairly happy with the half toile, but as ever it looks completely different on a stand than it does a person, so with a few minor adjustments, I made a full toile to trial on a model.

The toile fitting went really well. It looked a bit like a lab coat at first, but with a few nips and tucks, was looking much better. I now have quite a bit to do, including taking up the hems, elongating the lapels, taking in the side seam and making the sleeve higher, also the pockets which I have not toiled yet. So lots to do, not to mention the lining!