Final Design

From the final designs, I picked one design and adapted it slightly. I chose this design because I think it matches with my concepts very well, its slightly oversized and straight to give a masculine look. Its also very minimal with panelling at the front and back and pocket and lapel details at the front. I like the collar on this jacket which is unusual, and will be the main feature, with the rest being simple. I altered the length to make it look less like a coat, also it now goes straight down as opposed to going diagonal after the breakpoint, to keep the focus on the collar.

Toiles

After deciding I wanted to create an oversized look, I used a man's pattern blocks to create this look, and decided to alter it according to a one that Sally (pattern cutting tutor) had made up.

Taking in from the shoulder down, (where it is pinned) means the sleeve will sit closer in and the side will be taken in a little, giving a less baggy look, as the mens jacket is massive! So the next step was to do a paper half jacket to test on the stand...

This is what the outcome was. So I adjusted the length as it was too long, and I was happy with the lapel, but it needed a slight reshape. From this I initial pattern draft I altered the patterns to create a half toile.

I was fairly happy with the half toile, but as ever it looks completely different on a stand than it does a person, so with a few minor adjustments, I made a full toile to trial on a model.

The toile fitting went really well. It looked a bit like a lab coat at first, but with a few nips and tucks, was looking much better. I now have quite a bit to do, including taking up the hems, elongating the lapels, taking in the side seam and making the sleeve higher, also the pockets which I have not toiled yet. So lots to do, not to mention the lining!

Collection

There are 60 designs, so I have picked the best ones....

Inspirational tailoring

Paul Smith is probably the most interesting when it comes to tailoring, his crazy twist on classic tailoring makes his clothes so much more fun and young and fresh. Similar to Aquascutum, the details make his garments so much more perfect and changing them all the time, keeps his designs fresh. 

Colour...

...Print....

.....Details....

I love those details that Paul Smith uses, the randomly placed, numerous button holes on the lapels, the different sizes and shapes of the lapels, the linings etc. They make Paul Smith's clothes unique and they add a signature touch.

Stella McCartney
I adore Stella McCartney's take on tailoring, its minimal, clean, oversized, masculine, everything this project is about! So its really inspiring. I mostly like the bold, large silhouettes and simple details, all focus is on the shape. The jackets are made of stunning fabrics, prints and colours, with a masculine vs feminine take on tailoring.

Extremely low break points, simple colours, luxorious fabrics, bold prints and bold shapes may be quite minimal, but they create something that stands out.

Hackett
Hackett alongside Aquascutum is quintessentially British, creating classic and timeless menswear. It has retained this traditional look, with a whole range of collections, for summer wear, formalwear, informal wear etc.

I like the simple, fitted silhouette, its very British. The fabrics are also stunning, the tweeds and checks add a truly British touch and a bit of colour and fun.

Ozwald Boateng
Ozwald Boateng is not as old as some of the previous companies, however he has really created his signature style and has made an impact on the tailoring world. His extremely sharp suits combined with his dramatic choice of bold colours creates something so classic, but new.

A perfectly simple, sharp, tailored look that Ozwald Boateng creates is really inspiring. He focusses on shape, colour, fabric, and details such as lapels and pockets, all of which are really important to a tailored jacket.